If you’ve planted young trees in Colorado’s foothills, you’ve probably done everything right — proper planting, watering, mulching, and waiting patiently. And yet, come spring, some trees struggle or fail for reasons that aren’t obvious. The issue often isn’t soil, weather, or care at all. It’s routine wildlife activity that goes unnoticed until the damage is already done.
Some damage begins during fall rutting season, when antler rubbing can weaken young trees. Other damage happens slowly over winter as animals browse or chew bark at ground level. With large populations of elk and mule deer throughout areas like Evergreen, Conifer, Golden, and the surrounding foothills, protecting young and vulnerable trees from wildlife damage is an important part of long-term tree care.
Key Takeaways
- Damage height tells you what’s attacking your tree: rodents work at or below ground level (often hidden under snow), deer rub bark at 1.5-3.5 feet, and elk reach 6-7+ feet.
- Physical barriers — tree guards for deer, hardware cloth for rodents, fencing for elk — are the most effective protection; repellents help but require frequent reapplication.
- Trees girdled more than 50% around the trunk have low survival rates and often need professional assessment for removal.
- Late winter is the ideal time to assess damage and install protection before spring growth begins.

Antler rubbing (left) strips bark and exposes the cambium layer beneath. Beaver damage (right) creates distinctive gnaw marks and wood chips — less common in Jefferson County’s mountain communities, but worth recognizing if you live near water.
How Do You Identify What’s Damaging Your Trees?
Before you can confidently identify the culprit, you have to know what to look for. Winter tree damage shows up in distinctly different ways depending on the animal causing it. The quickest way to narrow it down is to look at where the damage is on the tree.
Signs of Deer Damage
Deer cause two types of damage: browsing and antler rubbing. While deer feed on twigs and foliage year-round, the damage intensifies in the winter because all other food sources are buried under the snow. And though the antler rubbing happens in the fall, when bucks scrape against the bark to remove velvet and mark their territory, that damage often goes unnoticed until late winter when homeowners begin noticing other signs and inspect their trees.
Here’s what each one looks like:
- Browsing: Ragged, shredded branch tips from ground level to about six feet high. Because deer lack upper incisors, their bite tears plant material rather than cutting cleanly — look for that telltale frayed appearance.
- Antler Rubbing: Vertical strips of torn bark on trees with 1-4 inch diameter trunks, typically 1.5-3.5 feet high.
Look for fresh deer tracks and pellet droppings nearby to confirm your suspicion.
Signs of Elk Damage
Elk cause the same types of damage as deer for the same reasons, but on a larger scale — and they’re bolder about feeding near homes when winter pushes them down from higher elevations. Here are some telltale signs you’re looking at elk damage vs. deer:
- Browsing: Reaches 7+ feet high — if you’re seeing stripped branches above head height, elk are likely responsible.
- Rubbing: Occurs higher on the trunk and on larger-diameter trees than deer damage.
- Location: Common around Evergreen (particularly near Elk Meadow Park), Conifer, and Indian Hills.
Signs of Rodent Damage
Unlike their larger counterparts, rodent damage occurs at the ground level and as such, is often hidden until snow melts, making these smaller creatures paradoxically more dangerous. A handful of different rodents gnaw on bark and roots for food and to wear down their constantly growing teeth, including voles, gophers, rabbits, and squirrels.
Here’s how to identify who is causing the damage:
- Voles: Gnaw marks at ground level or just below snow line, with small (1/8 inch) tooth marks in a girdling pattern around the trunk.
- Gophers: No visible trunk damage — they attack roots underground. Watch for fan-shaped soil mounds and unexplained tree decline.
- Rabbits: Clean, 45-degree angled cuts on twigs; bark stripped up to snow line height.
- Squirrels: Stripped bark on upper branches and trunk, often in irregular patches rather than a girdling pattern. Look for chewed twigs and dropped cone or nut debris beneath the tree.
DID YOU KNOW?: Rabbits aren’t actually rodents — they’re lagomorphs, a separate order of mammals. But since they cause similar bark damage, we’ve included them here.
What Are the Best Ways to Protect Trees from Deer and Elk?
Physical barriers are the most reliable protection against deer and elk — once installed, they work around the clock without reapplication. Repellents can supplement your defenses but break down in weather and lose effectiveness as animals get used to them.
Install Tree Guards, Cages, and Fencing
Fencing and guards create a physical obstacle between wildlife and your trees:
- Tree Guards/Wraps: Plastic or wire cylinders that wrap around the trunk to prevent rubbing. Must extend at least 3.5 feet high for deer, 5+ feet for elk.
- Wire Cages: Freestanding enclosures that keep animals from reaching foliage and bark. At least 4-foot diameter around individual trees to prevent browsing — animals will reach through smaller openings.
- Hardware Cloth Cylinders: Rigid welded wire mesh (sturdier than chicken wire) formed into a protective tube. A budget-friendly option that’s affordable and effective for young trees.
- Property Fencing: Perimeter barriers that exclude deer and elk entirely. Minimum 8 feet to exclude deer; 6 feet may deter elk in confined residential areas.
Use Egg-Based Repellent Sprays
Egg-based repellent sprays are the most effective chemical deterrent. The sulfur compounds in eggs smell like decay to deer, triggering avoidance. A simple homemade version — 20% whole eggs mixed with 80% water — works generally as well as commercial products. For best results:
- Apply on dry days when temperatures are above freezing
- Treat foliage to 6 feet above expected snow depth
- Reapply every 30 days and after rain
- Rotate between egg-based and capsaicin (hot pepper) repellants to prevent habituation
Clear Brush and Cover
Deer and elk prefer to feed where they feel hidden from predators. Reducing dense vegetation near your trees removes that sense of security, making animals less likely to linger and browse. If you’ve already done fire mitigation or defensible space work, you’re ahead of the game — those same practices discourage wildlife from settling in to feed.
One other tip: avoid planting highly preferred species (like aspens) near property edges where wildlife pressure is highest.
How Do You Prevent Rodent Damage to Tree Trunks and Roots?
Rodent prevention relies on physical exclusion and habitat modification, with different approaches for each pest type.
Use Hardware Cloth for Voles and Mice
Hardware cloth cylinders with 1/4-inch openings are your best defense; the small mesh keeps voles from reaching the bark:
- Bury cylinders 2-3 inches below soil level
- Extend 18-24 inches above ground
- Keep mulch at least 6 inches away from trunks; “mulch volcanoes” create perfect vole highways
- Mow grass short around trees in fall (tall grass provides cover and nesting material)
- Remove leaf litter and debris from tree bases before snow arrives
Prevent Gopher Damage with Wire Baskets and Trapping
Gophers attack roots underground, making them difficult to stop once trees are established. Your options depend on whether you’re protecting new plantings or dealing with an existing problem:
- Install wire baskets around root balls at planting time — this is the most reliable protection, but only works for new plantings
- For existing trees, trapping active tunnels is the most effective option
- Baiting requires careful placement to avoid harming pets and non-target wildlife

Spiral tree guards (left) protect young trunks from deer rubbing, while fabric covers (right) shield smaller animals from browsing.
Protect Trees from Rabbits Above the Snow Line
Unlike voles, rabbits feed above ground — and as snow accumulates, it gives them a higher platform to reach bark they couldn’t access earlier in the season. Tree guards and chicken wire cages work well, but only if they extend above the snow line. Plan for your area’s typical snow depth, and check after major storms to make sure protection still covers the vulnerable bark.
Why Squirrels Are Harder to Stop
Squirrels climb, jump, and adapt quickly — most barriers that stop deer or ground-dwelling rodents won’t faze them. Metal trunk wraps can prevent climbing on individual trees, but squirrels simply jump from nearby branches or structures. The most effective long-term control is encouraging natural predators like hawks and owls by maintaining open sightlines on your property.
PRO TIP: The best time to install rodent protection is fall, before snow covers the damage. But late winter — before spring growth — is your second chance. Don’t miss the window!
Can a Tree Recover from Wildlife Damage?
Recovery depends on how much bark has been removed around the trunk’s circumference — a form of damage known as bark girdling. This happens when animals strip or chew through the bark, damaging the cambium layer just beneath it.
The cambium acts as the tree’s transport system, moving water upward from the roots and sugars downward from the leaves. When this layer is interrupted around too much of the trunk, the tree can no longer move resources effectively.
In general, recovery potential follows these guidelines:
- Less Than 25% Girdled: Tree will likely recover with proper care.
- 25-50% Girdled: Recovery possible but tree will be stressed. Monitor closely.
- More Than 50% Girdled: Low survival rate. Consult an arborist about bridge grafting or removal.
- Complete Girdling (100%): Tree will die. Removal recommended before it becomes hazardous.
Aftercare for Damaged Trees
Proper aftercare helps damaged trees heal without additional complications:
- Do NOT apply wound dressings, paint, or tar — this traps moisture and promotes decay
- Provide adequate water during recovery, especially during dry periods
- Consider light fertilization to support new growth
- Monitor for bark beetles, which target stressed trees
Wildlife pressure peaks when trees are already stressed by cold and drought. Pairing these protection strategies with good late winter tree care practices gives your trees the best chance of reaching spring healthy.
Frequently Asked Questions About Protecting Trees from Wildlife Damage
Do motion-activated sprinklers or lights deter deer and elk?
Motion-activated devices can startle deer temporarily, but wildlife in residential areas, like Evergreen, quickly become habituated to them. These devices are best used as a supplement to physical barriers, not as a primary defense. Elk are particularly unfazed by most scare tactics.
Can I relocate problem deer or elk from my property?
No. In Colorado, it’s illegal to trap and relocate deer or elk without a permit from Colorado Parks and Wildlife. Focus on protecting your trees rather than removing the animals.
Are aspens more vulnerable to wildlife damage than conifers?
Yes. Aspens are highly preferred browse for deer and elk, and their thin bark makes them especially vulnerable to rubbing damage. If you have aspens in a high-wildlife area, they should be your top priority for protection.

LAM Tree’s Ryan and Maddy have helped Jefferson County homeowners protect and care for their trees since 1978.
Protect Your Trees Before Winter Damage Gets Worse with Help from LAM Tree
Wildlife damage from deer, elk, and rodents is a reality of mountain living in Jefferson County — but the right protection measures make a significant difference. Late winter is the critical assessment window before spring growth begins.
See bark damage on your trees? Don’t wait until spring to find out if they’ll survive. LAM Tree’s Certified Arborists can assess wildlife damage, recommend treatment options, install protective barriers, and safely remove trees that can’t be saved.
Call 303-502-2188 or request an estimate online to schedule your assessment.
